Behind an ordinary busy road in Leek, you can step back to the altogether more peaceful world of 1752, where the power of the Churnet still turns local wheat into flour, which is then used to feed chickens on nearby farms. Until a complaint was made about some unidentified “black bits”, the flour was sold for human consumption; understandably health and safety concerns have now vetoed this.
Brindley Mill is a museum, but not as we usually know it. The above mentioned health and safety worries have not extended to an obsessive sanitising of the building, and visitors still need to climb ladders like the millers did, and dodge huge low beams. You also get to stand extremely close to the massive wheels as they dovetail against each other with surprising speed.
I was shown around by an enthusiastic guide, who kindly gave me two books about the mill at the end of the visit. The whole experience was unexpectedly exciting – I really did feel I was standing and looking at the prototype designs for canals, locks, and all of modern engineering. James Brindley was clearly a crucial figure in the development of the Industrial Revolution, and I found myself reflecting on how little we seem to champion our local heritage in North Staffordshire. The museum is staffed by volunteers and funded from a variety of sources; I had the sense that it would not exist without the commitment of the enthusiasts who clearly work for love, not money.
But ultimately, I think this enthusiasm is what made the experience so satisfying; the building is idiosyncratic, inaccessible and even lacks a toilet, which I’m sure breaks all sorts of regulations – but it feels completely authentic, and that cannot be said of many more corporate attractions.
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Learn more about the mill at www.brindleymill.net